Officially Indian

Today I went to the Foreign Registration Office and got my Indian Residency papers. I’m official. I had to take a train there, in my “first class” car:

it was crowded. At the station:

It was also crowded (click on the pic above as it was taken with my friends camera – good quality). We went to the government office where they hate spitting:

In the pic to the right, the dunce cap is actually an old school fire extinguisher. No idea how it works but it looks 60 years old.

After a few hours filling out forms in triplicate, they told me to come back in two hours to pick up my documents. So we took a walk around town, here’s Victoria Station:

And a Mosquito Proof Well.

More pics (in better quality and not from my iPhone), coming soon…

Barackfast in the Whitehouse

Recently I’ve seen a few ads for a butter company (Amul), pop up around Mumbai.

There was also a second ad I saw from a political movement which has a picture of Ghandi and Obama, and basically says that Ghandi and Obama have similar beliefs. Whether or not this is true, in the last week whenever I tell people I’m from the US, everyone grins and says “Ohhh Obama” and gives a thumbs up. People ask me if I think Obama can actually deliver on his promise for change. Whether or not he can deal with the economy, the war, energy and health care, just by getting elected he has already taken one important step forward in restoring America’s image abroad.

First Impressions

I left New York 2 weeks ago, and after a wild ride through Israel and Vietnam I’m now back in India for good.  I’m very happy to be here, and although Mumbai isn’t the easiest place to live, I’m slowly getting my bearings.  Here’s some initial thoughts:

  • India is very hot.  It’s been about 97 during the day, last night was 82 at midnight.  I sweat a lot.
  • Mumbai is really big and congested.  The infrastructure is exploding at the seams.  It would take me 2-3 hours on a good day to get all the way downtown.  Generally it’s about a 30-45 minute cab ride to get anywhere (partly because it’s far, mostly because of traffic).
  • My apartment is really cool.  2 beds/2 baths/4 balconies, brand new building.  Here’s a pic of my living room and view:

  • My neighborhood is kinda out of the way and tough to get to – I’m also more or less surrounded by slums.  There is a grocery store and one respectable restaurant within walking distance, very important.
  • Indian people are really nice and have made me feel really welcome.  I met some guys at work who have gone out of there way to help me and take me out been taking me out, I haven’t spent a night home since I’ve been here.  The nightlife is great and I’m relatively close (20 min) to a neighborhood called Bandra which has a lot of fun bars and restaurants.  We went to a club called Blue Frog last weekend that had Afro-Cuban music.
  • My neighbors also have been really helpful.  The family next door sees me looking confused all the time (since I have no idea where anything is or how to get there) and have given me a lot of help.  They also bought be some chocolates for Diwali.
  • Indian people and I share a common love for fireworks.  Because it was Diwali (and last time I was here it was the Ganesh festival), there has been a ridiculous amount of fireworks at all times of the night.
  • People are really curious what I’m doing here, I get asked really personal questions (how much money do you make?).  A group of kids also followed me in the supermarket and kept reciting the name of the fruit in Hindi and asking me what it was in English.  I also get stared at sometimes, but all I can really do is stare back and eventually laugh.
  • There are a lot of cows that just wander around my ‘hood.
  • Before coming here and after my first trip I thought that everyone spoke English.  This isn’t true.  It seems like the less educated people (including security guards and cabbies) speak almost no english.  Because I live out of the way, and can’t give good instructions, getting home from anywhere involves writing my address down (including the 1 or 2 not famous landmarks nearby) and having a rickshaw driver (who can’t read english) drive for 5 minutes, stop and show someone the piece of paper, drive for 5 more minutes, stop and show the paper until we get home.
  • Mumbai is the most expensive city in India, but it’s still very cheap.  A decent meal at a resteraunt costs around $2, a liter of water is 20 cents, a 45-min cab ride is around $2, I bought a ridiculous amount of groceries for like $7.  Though booze can be expensive depending on where you go.  I went to a nice place and accidentally ordered a $20 glass of johnnie black (ouch).
  • Although cricket dominates, I found a pretty good basketball game at the YMCA.  I met a guy who plays on their semi-pro club team, he told me when they play and invited me down.  I’m going to check it out next week.  Phase one complete for my secret  “how to make a living playing semi-pro basketball in a foreign country” plan.  Here’s a shot of the YMCA:

Generally I’m happy with where I am and looking forward to starting work tomorrow.  I have an extra bedroom, friends… come visit.

why im moving to india

a few months ago i was feeling stuck.  i started plateauing at my job, my social life was fun but unfulfilling and my only hobbies were ballin’, readin’ and drinkin’.  i was restless.  i traveled a lot growing up and always wanted to live abroad.  on a whim i started researching agile software companies, interactive agencies and fast growing companies in india.  i emailed the ceo’s directly letting them know i was motivated, charismatic and relentless.  i setup a few interviews and bought a plane ticket.  i was there for two weeks, had 7 interviews and accepted an offer in mumbai.

my short trip to india reinforced my desire to go there.  sure it was dirty, crowded and i almost died every time i crossed the street, but there is a huge amount of energy and excitement.   sometimes when you get to a place it just feels right – i felt an immediate connection to mumbai and the people i met there.  also the ability to travel in the region (i have friends in vietnam and thailand) was particularly appealing.

why india?  as india continues to play a more important role in the global economy i figured the experience gained working there and the connections id be able to make, will one day prove invaluvable.  culturally i’ve always been fascinated by india and out of the worlds largest emerging economies (BRIC), it’s the only one where language isn’t really a barrier.  obtaining a work visa (with a u.s. passport) is also easy.  finally there’s an amateur basketball scene, a prerequisite for any place i would consider living.